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Collagen banking is the buzzy skincare term du jour for ways of maintaining more hydrated, glowy skin. But what exactly is collagen banking? Think of it as more of a preventative rather than a corrective one, aiming to bolster and preserve your collagen reserve before the signs of aging appear. But is the practice worth the hype? Ahead, we’re deep-diving into whether collagen banking works, is here to stay, or is just a fleeting trend.
Experts in This Article
board-certified dermatologic surgeon at Shafer Clinic Fifth Avenue in New York City
Kiran Mian DO, FAAD, is a dermatologist offering medical and cosmetic services in NYC
board-certified dermatologist and founder of Visha Skincare
board-certified dermatologist at UnionDerm
a board-certified dermatologist, and founder of Turner Dermatology, based in New York City
What is collagen?
Collagen is a naturally occurring protein that is one of the primary building blocks of the skin, as well as our bones, fascia, tendons, ligaments, and other connective tissues. Next to water, it’s the most abundant molecule in our body—compromising about 25-35 percent of our whole body protein, says Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified cosmetics dermatologist in New York City. “In skin, it provides resilience and structure, giving it that firm, smooth, “bouncy” look associated with a healthy, radiant appearance,” Ryan Turner, MD, a board-certified NYC-based dermatologist and co-founder of TRNR Skin says. “However, as we age, our collagen deteriorates, causing skin to thin, sag, and lose volume, which leads to lines, creases, and laxity.”
What is collagen banking?
Experts say to think of collagen banking as a savings account for your skin. You add more to your reserve, so you’ll have as much stockpiled as possible ready to draw upon when the body’s natural collagen production rate begins to decline. Dr. Turner calls it a “prejuvenation” strategy of lifestyle choices, skincare products, and treatments based on building collagen while preserving existing levels to maintain firm, supple, and resilient skin as you age.
He notes that collagen also deteriorates with smoking exposure and environmental factors like UV and pollution. Considering that the collagen produced by older tissue is not as high quality as when we’re younger, supporting production during the years when our skin is still making it at prime levels may help our skin extend its bounce and plumpness. “It’s always easier to prevent collagen loss or damage than to repair it,” Robyn Gmyrek, MD, a board-certified board-certified dermatologist at UnionDerm says, especially since we start losing one percent of collagen per year, beginning at the age of 25, with a sharper decline after menopause.
When should you start collagen banking?
Collagen banking should be done throughout one’s life, but the adage, “prevention is better than the cure,” is apt when it pertains to the skin. “Studies show that1 collagen production can begin to decline as soon as we reach our 20s, which is why taking a proactive approach to skin health is so important,” Dr. Turner says.
Maintaining your skin health in your youth—starting even as early as childhood—is much easier than correcting damage in later years. “Teens and younger,” Dr. Engelman says, “should avoid the very active skincare products that are recommended for increasing collagen production in adults.” Instead, they should get their collagen from a healthy, balanced diet with quality protein sources, leafy greens, vitamin C, and other recommended nutrients. Above the age of 16, Dr. Dendy says you can start incorporating skincare products and practices (a hydrating cleanser and moisturizer, wearing SPF 30, etc.) that support collagen production.
Ways to practice collagen banking at home
First and foremost, it’s important to guard the collagen you already have. “UV rays, free radicals, stressors, and other external aggressors can damage our collagen and accelerate its loss,” explains Dr. Engelman. Protect your skin by wearing sunscreen daily, whether rain or shine and using skincare with antioxidants, such as vitamin C, which helps fight free radical formation and inflammation.
Dr. Engelman considers retinol the “gold standard” of anti-aging for its ability to boost collagen production and function like an antioxidant to protect skin from oxidative stress. She likes Fig. 1’s Retinol Level-Up System, for both new and experienced retinol users, as it delivers clinically-backed results while allowing the skin to acclimate at its own pace, with minimal irritation. If your skin can’t tolerate retinol, she recommends trying bakuchiol, a plant-derived alternative that provides similar benefits without harsh side effects.
She touts formulas with niacinamide (for collagen synthesis) or peptides, which are chains of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins like collagen) to help promote firmer skin. We like the Neogen Niacinamide Glow-Up Daily Facial ($35), a daily pad soaked in niacinamide, plant extracts, and ceramides to help your face feel more moisturized. SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum ($295) is also good for this, with flaxseed, marine extract, and peptides to hydrate and support a strong barrier. Beyond topical treatments, Dr. Gmyrek suggests using an at-home LED device—red or near-infrared light wavelengths—to stimulate cellular energy to improve collagen production and elasticity. And while topical solutions are great, Dr. Gmyrek says you don’t have to clear out the collagen cream shelf since most formulas won’t penetrate the skin’s surface.
And when it comes to collagen supplements, the verdict is still out. Most of the experts polled pointed out that they aren’t a magic wand for your face. While some clinical evidence shows animal-derived collagen from bovine or fish may be beneficial (note: there aren’t any out yet showing that vegan derivatives actually work), there’s still reason to be skeptical about their efficacy. “Collagen is a protein that gets broken down into amino acids when ingested and spread throughout your bloodstream. Your body will use those amino acids where it needs them,” explains Purvisha Patel, MD, a Memphis-based board-certified dermatologist. “There is no guarantee that it will be used for skin rejuvenation.” Lastly, Dr. Engelman adds that eating a well-balanced diet that includes leafy greens, high-quality proteins, vitamins, and minerals can help stimulate collagen production at any age.
In-office treatments that support collagen banking
Non-invasive or minimally invasive procedures that you get at your doctor’s office are another way to up your game when looking to increase collagen production. Chemical peels and microneedling trigger the body’s natural wound-healing response to turn on its collagen process. Radiofrequency (like Thermage) amps it up with heat, while treatments that couple RF with micro-needling (like the buzzy Morpheus and devices by Candela) allow a more precise, deeper penetration. Dr. Gmyrek likes PRP since it uses a patient’s growth factors and peptides to stimulate collagen production. Dr. Mian uses biostimulators, such as Sculptra, to improve skin integrity.
Additionally, ultrasound therapy (like Soft Wave and Ulthera) and laser treatments with ablative or non-ablative resurfacing—like the Clear and Brilliant and the Fraxel Dual—are top-tier for stimulating collagen and tightening the skin. Some feature imaging technology that allows the provider to target different depths of tissue. “These devices are great for those experiencing mild to moderate collagen loss,” says Dr. Turner. However, these treatments typically require multiple sessions, which can take up to six months to see results. The most important factor? Looking for a skilled provider since these devices can damage the skin and deeper tissue when used incorrectly.
Final takeaway
Implementing collagen banking into your routine is a worthwhile investment for plumper, more hydrated skin in the long term. It’s never too late to start, but implementing the regimen while your collagen is still at its prime is best when trying to keep yourself looking fresh.
“Trust the process,” Dr. Gmyrek says. “If you do nothing, the collagen breakdown will continue and accumulate, leading to thinner, wrinkled skin.” And remember, regardless of the pro treatments or skincare products, lifestyle choices matter, so avoid smoking, use sunscreen daily, and be kind to yourself to set a solid foundation for hydrated , healthy skin that’s in it for the long haul.
Varani, James, et al. “Decreased Collagen Production in Chronologically Aged Skin.” The American Journal of Pathology, vol. 168, no. 6, 1 June 2006, pp. 1861–1868, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1606623/, https://doi.org/10.2353/ajpath.2006.051302. Accessed 12 Apr. 2020.
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