Around Fashion Month, we see a lot of bleached eyebrows on the runway or celebs. However, the trend has swelled beyond high fashion models dyeing icy blonde brows. People all over TikTok take the process into their own hands, lightening their brows to different degrees (some platinum blonde, others just a touch lighter than their natural brows). But remember that hair bleach is an intense chemical, and misusing it so close to your eyes can be dangerous. The process is so risky that in some states, it’s illegal for hairstylists to bleach brows.

“Currently, salons in California are not allowed to perform the procedure because of a law that bans the use of products unapproved by the Food and Drug Administration,” says Ashleigh Marie Rancilio, a hairstylist in Los Angeles. In New York State, stylists are only allowed to tint brows with demi-permanent dyes, making permanent dyes—which include bleaching—out of the question. And many brow studios don’t offer brow bleaching. So finding a professional to do it for you might not be possible, especially depending on where you live.

If you are truly committed to getting blonde eyebrows (or, if you really want to hop on the invisible brow trend, white eyebrows), you can bleach your brows at home—but you need to be very careful. Worst case scenario, you can get bleach in your eyes which can lead to blindness. On the less intense end of the spectrum, bleaching your brows can lead to weak and frail brows and even loss of brow hairs.

“Eyebrow bleaching can cause potential weakening and thinning,” says Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “People who have thick brows might not necessarily notice that impact, but, the same as doing any kind of chemical processing for your scalp hair, over time that can have an impact on the hairs. And in terms of brows, we don’t have as much reserve.” Plus, the bleach can irritate your skin.

“A lot of the time, the bleaches can create a chemical reaction on the skin, which can lead to irritation,” says Dr. Garshick. Depending on your skin tone, that irritation can present as redness, lightening of the skin, or darkening of the skin. “In somebody who has darker skin, it can lead to basically a post-inflammatory hypo-pigmentation where the skin looks lighter than the normal skin color. It can also lead to a post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation where it’s darker than the normal skin color, but it can happen in any skin type.” Now that you’re briefed on what can go wrong, here’s how to bleach your brows, the right (and safe) way.

Why do people bleaching their eyebrows?

Bleached eyebrows is an aesthetic choice that some people make to achieve an edgier look. Others may opt for bleached brows for SFX makeup, runway or editorial looks, or even for costumes. “Bleaching eyebrows can create a striking contrast with darker hair, offering a unique and edgy look,” says dermatologist Hannah Kopelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist. “Others opt for this change to complement lighter hair colors, achieving a softer, more cohesive appearance.”

What to do before you bleach your brows

1. Get a facial hair bleach

Eyebrow bleaching “must be done with a solution that’s specifically formulated for the brows or you risk blindness,” says Rancilio. Plus, the bleach that’s sold for facial use isn’t as strong as the bleach you get for your head hairs. This Sally Hansen Extra Strength Crème Hair Bleach for Face ($13) uses hydrogen peroxide along with aloe to provide gentle lightening of facial hair, and the formula is nice and thick to prevent dripping. Follow the mixing directions on the box, apply the bleach to your brows with a spatula, and in eight to 13 minutes you’ll have bleached brows.

2. Do a patch test

The last place you want an allergic reaction is your face. To cut down the chance of this happening, Dr. Garshick recommends doing a patch test, which is when you apply a small amount of product to an inconspicuous area and see if it causes a reaction. “It is always best to do a small patch test by applying a small amount to the inner arm to ensure no allergy to any of the ingredients in the bleach,” she says. “This is especially important if you have sensitive skin.” If you perform the test and see no irritation, you’re all set for the real deal.

How to bleach eyebrows at home safely

Because different facial bleaches come with their own specific directions, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all, step-by-step guide for how to bleach your eyebrows at home. That said, there are a few general rules to keep in mind throughout the process.

1. Protect the skin around your brows

It’s really difficult to apply bleach to your eyebrows without getting any on your surrounding skin. For that reason, Dr. Garshick says to apply a thick product to your skin to serve as a barrier. “It is important to use a skin protectant like Vaseline ($5) or Aquaphor ($10) prior to applying the treatment to minimize irritation to the surrounding skin,” she says. Apply a generous amount.

2. Mix and apply the bleach as directed

Read the instructions in your eyebrow bleaching kit for mixing and application and follow them to a T. Now is not the time to go rogue and experiment. The last thing you want to do is fry off your brows. Be sure to leave the bleach on only for the amount of time that the product recommends, then thoroughly wash it off with a water-and-shampoo solution.

3. Keep your brows conditioned

Since bleaching your brows weakens the hair fibers, you want to do what you can to keep them strong. Use a brow serum like The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Lash and Brow Serum ($15) to keep them healthy. This serum is made with four peptides, vitamin B5, and a combination of camellia sinensis leaf extract, larix europaea wood extract, and zinc chloride to promote thicker, fuller, and healthier brows.

If you’re looking to splurge, another great option is the Obagi Nu-Cil Eyebrow Boosting Serum ($145), which uses a blend of lipids, hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5, and biotin to promote growth. It’s so good that Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with alopecia areata, says it’s the only product that has helped her grow thick eyebrows. “I started using it last August and by October I noticed they were so much fuller,” says Dr. Gohara.

How long do bleached eyebrows last?

Bleached eyebrows typically stay light for about four to six weeks, depending on one’s hair growth and the bleach they used for this process. As the new hairs grow in, the roots will start to show. Dr. Kopelman recommends maintaining regular touch-ups to keep a fresh, lightened appearance (if you wish). Of course, you can also let them grow out to return to your natural hair color.

How to care for bleached eyebrows

After bleaching your eyebrows, aftercare is essential to maintaining healthy skin and hair. You can use a gentle, hydrating moisturizer to soothe any irritation and keep the skin hydrated. You should also avoid direct sun exposure and wear a hat while you’re outside to avoid sun damage. Additionally, Dr. Kopelman says to give your brows time to breathe between bleaching sessions to prevent damaging your hairs and skin.

Final takeaway

Eyebrow bleaching isn’t for everyone, but if it is your thing, you should definitely approach it with caution. While bleached brows can provide some edge to your daily look or help lighten up hairs you want a touch darker, if it isn’t done correctly you run the risk of burns, irritation, or worse—blindness. Remember, the eye area is delicate, and this includes your brows. So, be sure to use a bleaching kit made specifically for the face (not the hair), follow instructions as they’re given on your bleach kit, avoid using harsh skincare products (like retinol and actives) when your brows are bleached, and be sure to let them breathe between sessions if you plan to be touching up your bleach regularly.