For a long time, most manicurists have been mum about Russian manicures. However, the top-secret service (that you can't just walk into any salon and request) has grown in popularity on social media, and it is super satisfying to watch. Russian manicures focus on cleaning and cutting cuticles on completely dry hands and nails to allow for a super precise polish application.
To get the rundown on Russian manicures, we spoke to Julie Kandalec, a NYC-based celebrity nail artist, and Natalia Bychkova, nail artist and owner of Nail Art House in Austin, TX, about what exactly the service entails and how it's different compared to a regular gel mani and its benefits, risks, and costs. Here's what you need to know before you get one.
- Julie Kandalec, celebrity manicurist and owner of Julie K Nail Atelier in New York
- Natalia Bychkova, nail artist and owner of Nail Art House in Austin, TX
What is a Russian manicure?
According to Bychkova, a Russian manicure is a dry technique emphasizing precision and attention to detail, so no water or soaking is used. "This method focuses on achieving a clean, natural look with structured gels and trimmed cuticles," Bychkova says. Kandalec says that a Russian manicure usually involves detailed cuticle exfoliation using an electric nail file, then applying nail coating in a special acrygel (which some also call molding or builder gel) and gel color.
How is a Russian manicure different from a regular manicure?
The key distinction between a Russian manicure and a regular one is primarily in its precision and tools. "A traditional manicure involves soaking the nails and cuticles with water, then pushing back the cuticles and trimming them manually with a cuticle nipper," says Kandalec. On the other hand, a Russian manicure is done completely dry and uses an e-file with specialized diamond bits to exfoliate the cuticle area around the nail.
"The dry manicure method allows for a more detailed result and enables the nail coating to be applied very close to the cuticle for longer-lasting wear," she adds. Because of this, Russian manicures can last for up to three to four weeks without chipping or breaking, while a regular gel manicure lasts anywhere from seven to 14 days. In addition, Russian manicures take about two hours, while regular manicures take between 30 and 50 minutes.
What is the Russian manicure process?
A Russian manicure begins with a consultation and analysis of the client's skin and nail plate, Bychkova says. "Based on this, specific grit nail bits and particular products like builder gel, hard gel, or soft gel are chosen according to the client's nail plate, which makes it a very customized manicure," she says. The process then includes trimming the nail plate, shaping it, gently pushing back the cuticles, and using nail bits and scissors to trim the cuticles and remove layers of dead skin.
"The Russian manicure technique takes a long time to perfect, so visiting well-trained nail technicians will ensure a fast, detailed, and most importantly, safe result," says Bychkova. It's also important to visit a salon that deeply sanitizes all its tools between clients to avoid infections.
What are the benefits of a Russian manicure?
The benefits of Russian manicures include precise details, very clean cuticles, and a chip-free manicure that lasts for weeks. "The exfoliation from the diamond bits creates a super clean cuticle, and the e-file does a great job at removing all excess skin from the nail plate," says Kandalec. This polished cuticle look may change how you want to experience manicures in the future, Bychkova says. "We always say, once you try a Russian manicure, you will never go back," she says.
You may also opt for a Russian manicure if you want to get your nails done around once a month instead of every few days or weeks. "Even though the duration of the service is longer than a regular gel manicure, it saves time in the long run because you aren't coming in as often," Bychkova says.
What are the risks of a Russian manicure?
While there are a lot of benefits to Russian manicures, there are also some risks to keep in mind. "If tools are not properly sterilized and disinfected, this could lead to infections," says Bychkova. Additionally, because this is a highly specialized technique, you want to ensure your nail tech is well-versed and experienced in Russian manicures. "Not just anyone who can pick up an e-file and cuticle scissors can master this," says Kandalec, so opting for a salon with well-trained manicurists is extremely important.
How much does a Russian manicure cost?
According to the experts, Russian manicures can run you around $100 on average, with $75 being the least expensive and $300 being the most. "The cost depends on the experience of your artist, products used, location, and clientele," says Bychkova. The price also reflects the time required (around 120 minutes or more) to complete the treatment.
Russian manicure care tips
"The biggest thing to know before getting a Russian manicure is that it's done dry and is completely waterless," says Kandalec. This means before getting a Russian manicure, do not use cuticle oil or lotions three days before your appointment. "The drier your cuticles are beforehand, the better, she says. After your appointment, you can resume cuticle oils and moisturizing creams as usual until your next one.
Final thoughts
Because of the precise nature of Russian manicures, you want to make sure you do research and thoroughly vet your nail tech before booking your service (your cuticles are super important, so you're better off safe than sorry). Unlike your traditional manicure, Russian manicures use a dry technique focusing on detailed gel polish and cleaning cuticles with a specialized e-file (so don't expect soaking your tips in fancy spa water). This process thoroughly removes and cleanses dead skin on the nail plate, allowing the gel polish to sit close to the cuticle.
If you're booking a Russian manicure, expect to spend up to two solid hours in the salon chair so your manicurist can achieve a precise, detailed result, and expect to dish out anywhere from $75-$300. And remember: it's important to refrain from using cuticle oil or lotion three days before your appointment to keep the area dry (which is optimal for best results).
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